Why does my dryer take longer to dry clothes in winter?

Cold outdoor air is denser and holds less moisture than warm air. Your dryer has to work harder to evaporate water from clothes, and cold air entering through the exhaust vent makes the heating element work longer to maintain temperature. If drying times have jumped significantly, a blocked vent or a failing heating element is usually the cause — not just the weather.

How often should I clean my dryer vent in Toronto?

At least once a year for most households — more often if you have a large family, dry heavy items like towels and jeans frequently, or if your vent run is long or has multiple bends. September or October is the ideal time so the vent is clear before you're running the dryer daily through the cold months.

Is a clogged dryer vent a fire hazard?

Yes. Dryer vent fires are one of the leading causes of house fires in Canada. Lint is highly flammable, and a blocked vent traps heat inside the dryer. In winter, when dryers run longer and more often, the risk is higher. A vent that takes more than 45 minutes to dry a normal load should be inspected immediately.

What are the signs my dryer won't survive the winter?

Watch for: clothes taking 2+ cycles to dry, a burning or musty smell during operation, the dryer shutting off mid-cycle and needing to cool before restarting, loud squealing or thumping noises that are getting worse, and the drum turning but no heat coming out. Any of these in fall means a problem that will almost certainly get worse through the heavy winter months.

How much does dryer repair cost in Toronto?

We Fix It Appliances charges a $95 flat diagnostic fee. If you proceed with the repair, that $95 is credited toward the total. Most common dryer repairs — thermal fuse, heating element, idler pulley, drum rollers, door latch — run $190–$280 all-in for parts and labour. We give you a firm quote before touching anything.

Can I clean my dryer vent myself?

You can clean the accessible portion behind the dryer with a vent cleaning brush kit. But for the full vent run — especially if it's long, runs through the wall, or exits through the roof — a professional clean is more thorough and confirms there are no crimps, bird nests, or disconnected sections. We inspect and clean the full run as part of our dryer service visits.

Is Your Dryer Ready for Winter? What Every Toronto Homeowner Should Check

By We Fix It Appliances | September 19, 2026 | Dryer Repair

October in Toronto means sweaters, closed windows, and the dryer running every other day. It also means the dryer takes longer to do its job — cold outdoor air is denser, holds less moisture, and makes the machine work harder than it does in July. Problems that were barely noticeable in summer become real failures by January. The best time to catch them is now, before you need the dryer the most.

Here are four things to check before winter, and the warning signs that mean your dryer needs a technician before the cold hits.

1. Clean the Full Dryer Vent Run — Not Just the Lint Trap

The lint trap catches the bulk of it, but lint also builds up inside the exhaust duct that runs from the back of your dryer to the exterior of your home. Over a full year of use, that duct accumulates a thick coat of lint — and in winter, when the dryer runs harder and longer, that buildup becomes a fire risk.

What to do: Pull the dryer away from the wall, disconnect the duct, and look inside. If it's lined with lint, it needs cleaning. A vent brush kit handles the accessible portion. For a long duct run — especially one that goes through the wall and exits through the roof or soffit — a full clean requires a longer flexible brush or a professional visit.

Fire risk note: Dryer vent fires are one of the leading causes of house fires in Canada. Lint is highly combustible, and a restricted vent traps heat inside the dryer. If your drying times have increased significantly, have the full vent run inspected — not just cleaned at the back.

Red flag: A normal cotton load should dry fully in 40–50 minutes. If it's taking 70+ minutes, the vent is partially blocked or the heating element is weakening. Either way, it won't get better on its own through winter.

2. Check the Exterior Vent Cap for Blockages

This one gets overlooked because it requires going outside. The exterior vent cap — the flap on the outside of your home where the dryer exhaust exits — can get clogged with lint, blocked by a bird nest, or frozen shut in winter. When the flap won't open, exhaust has nowhere to go. The dryer overheats, the thermal fuse trips, and suddenly it won't run at all.

What to do: Find the exterior cap on the side or back of your home. It should have a damper flap that opens when the dryer runs. With the dryer running, go outside and check that you can feel warm air coming out. If the flap is stuck, clogged, or damaged, clear it or replace the cap — they're inexpensive.

While you're out there: check the vent cover is not the mesh-screen type. Mesh caps trap lint quickly and are not recommended for dryer exhaust. They should be replaced with a louvred flap cap.

3. Listen for Noises That Weren't There Last Winter

A healthy dryer hums. If yours has developed a squeal, a rhythmic thump, or a grinding sound, those are mechanical components telling you they're wearing out. The three most common sources:

High-pitched squeal — worn idler pulley or drum glide bearings. Inexpensive fix. Ignore it and the belt snaps.
Rhythmic thumping — drum support rollers have flattened or split. Common after 7–10 years of heavy use. Still a simple repair.
Grinding or scraping — the drum felt seal has worn through and the drum is rubbing on the housing. Left long enough, this damages the drum itself.

All three are affordable repairs when caught early. All three become expensive if the worn part is allowed to damage other components through a full winter of daily use. If the dryer is making a noise it wasn't making a year ago, have it looked at now.

4. Check the Door Seal and Latch

The felt or rubber seal around the dryer drum keeps hot air inside the drum where it belongs. When this seal wears out, hot air escapes into the cabinet instead of drying your clothes — meaning longer cycles, higher energy bills, and more heat around the dryer's internal components than they're designed to handle.

Open the dryer door and run your hand along the drum rim. The seal should be intact with no gaps, tears, or sections that have pulled away. While you're there, check the door latch — it should click firmly shut. A door that doesn't seal properly means the dryer may not start, or may stop mid-cycle because the safety switch isn't getting a clean signal.

Both the door seal and latch are straightforward replacement parts. If either is worn, replacing them before winter means you're not dealing with the failure on a February Tuesday when there's a pile of wet laundry waiting.

Warning Signs Your Dryer Won't Make It Through Winter

If your dryer is showing any of these right now, don't wait:

Clothes still damp after a full 60-minute cycle on high heat
A burning smell — like hot dust or something scorching — during operation
The dryer shuts off before the cycle ends and won't restart until it cools down (thermal cutoff tripping repeatedly)
A squealing, thumping, or grinding noise that started in the last few months and is getting louder
The exterior vent cap isn't opening when the dryer runs
Error codes appearing on the display (common on Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, and Bosch models)

These aren't problems that resolve themselves over winter. They get worse — because the dryer is running more, working harder, and the failed component is under more stress than in summer.

Repair or Replace? The Honest Answer

Dryers are one of the most repair-friendly appliances in your home. There are fewer complex components than a washer or fridge, parts are widely available for most brands, and labour time is shorter. As a rule: if your dryer is under 10 years old and the repair costs less than half the price of a new one, repair is almost always the right call.

If the machine is 12–15+ years old and needs a motor or control board, that's a different conversation — and we'll have it honestly with you after the diagnostic. We don't quote repairs that don't make sense.

The $95 diagnostic fee covers a full inspection, and it's credited toward the repair if you proceed. Most common dryer repairs — heating element, thermal fuse, idler pulley, drum rollers, door seal — are completed the same day.